Some good news from Thursday that we forgot to share – Brian finished the polyurethane with 13 cans remaining. We knew we had overestimated a little when ordering so that we would have enough….but it turns out we overestimated A LOT. That’s $168 we’ll get back when we return them.
We know roughly the square footage of the arched walls because they consist of 5 rows of 5.5 panels. That’s about 440 square feet per side; 17.6 cans of polyurethane for both. There are ~4 panels in the bathroom that do not get coated on the east wall, so that brings it down to ~16.5 cans.
The endcaps are trickier to calculate because they are not rectangular and they aren’t made of full square panels. Based on counting the panels on the finished walls, our guess is a total of 25 panels between the two walls or 400 square feet total. That is 8 more cans of poly. For the whole house, that would add up to 24.5 cans.
We also originally planned to poly the outside of the bathroom, so that was probably 2 more cans as well as 2 cans for extra. That adds up to 28.5 and so we ordered 28.
Since we changed our mind to using paint for the bathroom and didn’t use our “extra” cans, that takes the 28 down to 24. But we only used 15!!! I asked Brian if he thinks he put it on too thin and he said that he applied it as thick as possible without causing giant drips.
So there ya have it. To the the tiling process:
Day 1 had been devoted to Ditra. Day 2 was laying the tile. While the crew worked inside, Brian started working out how to attach the plywood under the house. His system ended up going something like this –
- Hammer in two nails along the edge of the girder to create the proper 1/8″ gap
- Mark on the girder with a sharpie where the joists are (because they’ll be hidden once the plywood is in place)
- Position the two white tables under the house
- Slide a 4×8 sheet of plywood onto the tables
- Move the plywood into position against the nails
- Use scrap 2x4s and pieces of plywood to elevate the plywood up toward the joists
- Drive in screws along the edge where the joists were marked
- Use our big 8′ aluminum beam as a straight edge and draw a line across the middle of the board where the screws will go.
- Drive in screws along that line every 6 – 8 inches (the screws are fighting the bulging force of the insulation)
- Move along the board, out from the middle, drawing lines and driving screws along it
- Remove the nails, the ‘shims’ and the tables
All of the above was done while scooting around under the house on his back. The rocks are BRUTAL and he ended up with a severely scratched back that night [although he didn’t seem to mind].
He was completing the attachment for the first piece (it ended up taking more than an hour to go through that whole process as we worked out kinks) when I arrived. We called it a night after that.
We did our typical Sunday routine – up early, domestic stuff, dog duty and then over to the house. We were there by 9:35 because Jeff and crew were expected between 9:30-10:00am.
The guys started on the grout – we went with a color called “Camel” because our first choice, “Cinnamon Spice”, was discontinued. Those two were the closest colors to the dirt on the building pad. We went under the house.
I insisted on using a giant piece of cardboard for scooting around on because I had nowhere near the knee and back calluses that Brian had developed. It hurt A LOT to move around under there. Brian agreed and it turns out, was tacitly very grateful for the back protection.